Pairing Wine With Seafood 2

Whether cooking at home or ordering at a restaurant, these hints from a bunch of the Northwest’s most knowledgeable wine aficionados will point you in the right direction the next time you’re enjoying a seafood dinner or trying to impress company.

David Johnstone of the Vinopolis Wine Shop in Portland, Oregon usually selects a pinot gris with salmon. David says, “I look for a wine with a lot of body that doesn’t overpower the flavor of the fish. That said, I tend to stay away from heavy reds, as they can sometimes have a metallic flavor that overpowers the salmon.”

When it comes to halibut or whitefish he suggests a rich chardonnay or perhaps a pinot gris that accentuates the silky smooth flavor of white fish. In addition, he recommends selecting a white wine that has an oaked flavor, giving it a more complex taste that further enhances the smoothness of the fish. Beringer Reserve Chardonnay is a white wine he likes that is aged in oak, but there are many others.

In addition to complementing seafood, an inexpensive sauvignon blanc or pinot gris also makes an excellent base for cooking clams and mussels. Add chopped fresh garlic, onions, sea salt, butter, and parsley to your wine base to produce a succulent nectar for dipping some sourdough bread after the clams have been devoured.

Another Northwest wine expert, Tom Macarone, resides in the heart of wine country in Walla Walla, Washington, where he operates the popular T. Macarones Restaurant and Wine Bar. Growing up in Walla Walla, Tom has seen its recent transformation from a sleepy farm town into a regional mecca for wine enthusiasts.  

Tom looked to a specific wine from Walla Walla Vintners, the 2005 Sanjiovese as his top choice for salmon and especially smoked salmon. He specified the 2006 Waterbrook Sauvignon Blanc and the 2006 DaMa Chardonnay as his top choices for halibut and other white fish.  

“I like a drier and more crisp white than a sweet white wine to retain the flavor of the fish and keep the pallet cleansed. A white wine should complement the fish and not overpower it,” says Tom.

Tim O’Brien, the sommelier (wine expert) at Salty’s Restaurant on Alki in Seattle is anxiously awaiting the arrival of this year’s Copper River king salmon. The super high fat content of the highly prized king salmon is best matched with a pinot noir.

“A lot of people will eat salmon with a chardonnay and they leave not liking the taste of the salmon. Chardonnay is best served with halibut or other white fish and a more acidic wine like the pinot noir goes a lot better with the salmon and really brings out the flavor of the fish,” says O’Brien of his years of experience with patrons at Salty’s.  

When I brought up baked halibut O’Brien mentioned that he really likes the combination of a sauvignon blanc with a very basic salt and pepper recipe and a squeeze of fresh lemon after the fish is out of the oven. He likes the smoothness of both, calling it a “win-win”. 

When I asked Richard Kelsey, the sommelier at Ray’s Boathouse in Seattle what his first choice would be for shellfish he didn’t hesitate before he chose the 2008 Muscadet from the Chatuea de l’Hyverniere winery in old world France.

Muscadet is produced in the western Loire Valley in France, an area that in prehistoric times was a marine habitat covered in shellfish. The soil found in this valley is a powdery white color that is rich in calcium from the shells deposited on the ocean floor age’s ago. It’s what makes muscadet the perfect wine for just about any shellfish.  

Like O’Brien he also chose a pinot noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley to complement any salmon dish. Salmon is rich in flavor and doesn’t overwhelm the lighter of the red wines.

Kelsey’s choice for halibut was a lot more specific and he leaned towards the 2008 Maison Bleue “Notre Vie” Viognier from the Yakima Valley. He explained how the viognier’s have a very delicate flavor that compliments the mild taste of halibut and many of the sauces that go with it.

With four different patron’s ordering separate meals at a table it’s nearly impossible to perfectly match the bottle of wine to each of them. In Kelsey’s own words, “I like to encourage people to experiment with wines and perhaps try something that they haven’t had before. Wine isn’t a “vanilla” experience and adds to the fun of enjoying a great meal with good friends.”

People in the wine industry are just as passionate about their work as us fisherman are about fishing. I recommend introducing yourself to one of these wine aficionados the next time you’re eating out at one of these great Northwest establishments and turn your next “vanilla” meal into an unforgettable experience.