The Outdoor Line Forum

From the "Email Files"

"Nelly-
Hope you’re good. Quick Q- I have a 19 foot Boston Whaler Montauk. I recently had downriggers put on it. They were mounted on the last, most rearward T-Section of the rail.

I’m putting a kicker on next week. These rigger’s, are 30 inch fixed Boom. Any secrets on how to get the cable as far away from the kicker prop as possible? 45 degree angled out?

Do you think the 30 inch boom is enough or should I upgrade the booms to the 60 inchers? I assume it's case specific but what is your professional opinion thinking?"

First off, I'm sorry you have a fiberglass boat Sorry, I couldn't resist...

I like to get the gear as far away from the boat and as far apart (port to starboard) as possible.

Keeping the wire away from the boat minimizes the potential of getting a wire in the kicker prop and maximizing the boom-tip to boom-tip distance increases your area of fish attraction and decreases the possibility of your port terminal gear fouling on the starboard or vice-versa.

The only advantage of shorter booms is the ease of reaching the release. Make your releases slightly LONGER THAN YOUR BOOMS and get a couple of these Retro-Ease Weight Retrievers!

Here's a link to order these or head to Outdoor Emporium/Sportco:
http://store.cannondownriggers.com/products/324730/Retro-Ease

Longer booms positioned 90-degrees or perpendicular to your boat's gunwale is the way to go Bro!

Makes sense! Appreciate it as always! Cheers to you guys and your site is awesome!

Woods

As a fellow Boston Whaler owner (345 Conquest), I will not take offense to Nelly's comment.

Not exactly sure where your downriggers are located and if they can handle some weight, but one other trick is to use pancake downrigger 16 lbs. weights with the longer fins. I basically bend the fins slightly (if you are facing the stern or back of the boat, bend the starboard downrigger fin to the left, port opposite). You will know if you have them on backwards immediately.

The bend causes the downrigger weight to flare out further away from the boat. If you use a Kufa heavy duty rubber snubber (20 inch), it can also give some more action to your terminal gear. These are especially useful in deep water applications (200+ feet) as I have never had a tangle between the starboard and port downriggers.

Hope this helps.
-Troy

Just to add on. If you have the cash go with the 60 inch booms. Bigger is better trust me. Especially if your fishing in areas with heavy current you will find your downrigger cable doing crazy things. I also use a prop guard. I think it was around 100 bucks.. It has saved me a handfull of times.

http://www.propsavers.com/

Thank you Troy & Brandon for the suggestions!

Troy, my brother………you have my dream boat What kind of power are you running on that? I need to get my kids through college first before I start sniffing around for a 34. Those pancake downrigger weights I’ve heard do help. I think I’ll check them out. Thank you! I didn’t take Nelly’s comment personally either A whaler is the only way to go!

Brandon- thank you too! I think after hearing all of this I will go ahead and upgrade to the 36-60 inch booms. Seems to be the best method.
Cheers, guys.

Running triple 250 Verados to push that 20,000 pounds. Not exactly green running 1 gpm.

Not sure if you can wait but there are always some good deals on downriggers at the boat show.

Drop me an email if you are in the Seattle area.
-Troy

Good points by all, also need to remember that boat width plays into ball separation as the cable typically touches the side of the boat makes that the point where your angle starts.