Questions Answered on the Stick Weight
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:53 amSince our "Last Cast" segment a couple weeks ago, where Endsley and I discuss the use of the "Stick Weight", fishing for Steelehead Float Drifiting, I have had several questions. I have answered several Emails and thought it just may be easier if I put it out here in the forums and address a couple of the more common questions.
When making stick weights as you demonstrated in your ODL blog, you noted using 1/8” hollow core. I’m wondering if 4-4.5 oz. of 1/4” hollow core would be equally as effective. It wouldn’t seem that the length and diameter 1/4” vs. 1/8” lead make that much of a difference.
The diameter of the lead is the most important part. I have tried all different types of lead, different sizes, diameters, length etc. I have tried, drop shot weights with swivel clips in them. All other weights, when used as my weight for float dogging/float drifting, create a presentation that is unnatural, as in it stops and goes. The effectiveness of float dogging/drifting, I feel, is the ability to present your gear in a state of constant flow. All other weights grab so you are constantly popping the tip of your rod to free your gear.
The slim diameter doesn't do that. It has the ability to bounce along and not hang up. If you do hang up, 90% of the time, it's the hooks into grass or wood.
The ODL Last Cast video mentioned rigging the float 8’ from the terminal gear. I generally fish Reiter on the Skykomish with about 4-6’ of water and associated flow. At the flows/depths I generally fish, wouldn’t that length be shortened? For some reason I have a hard time visualizing what the terminal gear is doing under the surface...
If you are bank fishing (float drifting) you generally have a known depth. The key to successful float drifting is to have your depth set about 2 feet deeper then you river depth. This technique only works if your weight is sliding along the bottom. The weight must contact bottom to fish effectively. If you are in 6 ft. of water, I set my float stop 7 to 8 ft. above the weight, not the bait.
Visualize drift fishing and everything we know that is taking place with your gear as it moves down river through the drift.
You have no ability to control your down river line belly, as it's under water and happens due to the resistance of the current pushing on the line. As you follow your terminal tackle down river, the tip of your rod is pointed to the location at which the line enters the water. The fact is that your terminal presentation is actually up river, weight dragging, with the leader straight down river from the weight and the corkie or cheater, keeping your offering within a foot of the bottom.
With float drifting, you have several things working for you which gives you a great advantage. First, with the float, it completely eliminates down river line belly. From the tip of your rod, to your float, all your line is on the surface.
This is a key reason as to why you must use braid. The other reason for braid is that if you do in fact get hung up, your leader should be your break point and you will not lose all your gear. This is also beneficial so as not to give up several floats to the river at the end of the day.
From your float down you have your top-shot of mono. As I have said before, I use Fluroclear. I usually tie about an 18' piece of Fluorclear to my braid. If I am bank fishing at a known depth, I can usually get by with a piece at 10 to 12 ft. It's invisible and strong. I don't like high-vis braided line fished down on the bottom at my weight. In clear conditions, for me it doesn't make sense. Also, you are asking for trouble if it does get hung or wrapped on something. That mono is much easier to break then the braid. You need to have terminal break points in your presentation. The braid strength is far greater than the weight that your rod is rated. I would much rather break at my leader or top-shot, vs. my rod.
As far as how your gear presents under water from the float down, it's pretty much vertical. The difference really is all about your depth setting. If you are set at eight feet, and the water is six to seven feet deep, it will run vertical and the weight will be in contact with the bottom somewhat behind the position of the float. That is why your float will be pointed down river. The float is basically dragging the weight along. If the float stop is set at eight feet and the water depth is three feet, it still fishes. The difference is the angle of the line from the float to the weight. The shallower the water, the further back your weight will be behind the float as the weight drags along the bottom.
If you can visualize it, dependent on water depth, it will fish either vertical or more horizontal, with the weight always behind the float. It's important to have a general idea about your depth. You can adjust it simply by sliding your float stop up and down the top-shot. If you develop the bad habit of always leaving it in one position, you may miss the hook set on an eight foot stopper set, in three feet of water. In my experience, the more horizontal the presentation, the tougher it can be to catch up to that take down. When in the drift boat, I don't spend the day constantly adjusting my stopper depth. that being said, if I know I am fishing a hole that is about four feet in depth, I will adjust my stopper to around six foot. From the weight to your bait, there is really no change. The bait, cheater, worm etc. will be down river of the weight.
Hopefully this will clear up some questions and as always, keep the questions coming and we'll do our best to get you guys the info.
- Float Dogging Rig
- Stick%20Weight%20005[1].jpg (149.11 KiB) Viewed 6184 times
When making stick weights as you demonstrated in your ODL blog, you noted using 1/8” hollow core. I’m wondering if 4-4.5 oz. of 1/4” hollow core would be equally as effective. It wouldn’t seem that the length and diameter 1/4” vs. 1/8” lead make that much of a difference.
The diameter of the lead is the most important part. I have tried all different types of lead, different sizes, diameters, length etc. I have tried, drop shot weights with swivel clips in them. All other weights, when used as my weight for float dogging/float drifting, create a presentation that is unnatural, as in it stops and goes. The effectiveness of float dogging/drifting, I feel, is the ability to present your gear in a state of constant flow. All other weights grab so you are constantly popping the tip of your rod to free your gear.
The slim diameter doesn't do that. It has the ability to bounce along and not hang up. If you do hang up, 90% of the time, it's the hooks into grass or wood.
The ODL Last Cast video mentioned rigging the float 8’ from the terminal gear. I generally fish Reiter on the Skykomish with about 4-6’ of water and associated flow. At the flows/depths I generally fish, wouldn’t that length be shortened? For some reason I have a hard time visualizing what the terminal gear is doing under the surface...
If you are bank fishing (float drifting) you generally have a known depth. The key to successful float drifting is to have your depth set about 2 feet deeper then you river depth. This technique only works if your weight is sliding along the bottom. The weight must contact bottom to fish effectively. If you are in 6 ft. of water, I set my float stop 7 to 8 ft. above the weight, not the bait.
Visualize drift fishing and everything we know that is taking place with your gear as it moves down river through the drift.
You have no ability to control your down river line belly, as it's under water and happens due to the resistance of the current pushing on the line. As you follow your terminal tackle down river, the tip of your rod is pointed to the location at which the line enters the water. The fact is that your terminal presentation is actually up river, weight dragging, with the leader straight down river from the weight and the corkie or cheater, keeping your offering within a foot of the bottom.
With float drifting, you have several things working for you which gives you a great advantage. First, with the float, it completely eliminates down river line belly. From the tip of your rod, to your float, all your line is on the surface.
This is a key reason as to why you must use braid. The other reason for braid is that if you do in fact get hung up, your leader should be your break point and you will not lose all your gear. This is also beneficial so as not to give up several floats to the river at the end of the day.
From your float down you have your top-shot of mono. As I have said before, I use Fluroclear. I usually tie about an 18' piece of Fluorclear to my braid. If I am bank fishing at a known depth, I can usually get by with a piece at 10 to 12 ft. It's invisible and strong. I don't like high-vis braided line fished down on the bottom at my weight. In clear conditions, for me it doesn't make sense. Also, you are asking for trouble if it does get hung or wrapped on something. That mono is much easier to break then the braid. You need to have terminal break points in your presentation. The braid strength is far greater than the weight that your rod is rated. I would much rather break at my leader or top-shot, vs. my rod.
As far as how your gear presents under water from the float down, it's pretty much vertical. The difference really is all about your depth setting. If you are set at eight feet, and the water is six to seven feet deep, it will run vertical and the weight will be in contact with the bottom somewhat behind the position of the float. That is why your float will be pointed down river. The float is basically dragging the weight along. If the float stop is set at eight feet and the water depth is three feet, it still fishes. The difference is the angle of the line from the float to the weight. The shallower the water, the further back your weight will be behind the float as the weight drags along the bottom.
If you can visualize it, dependent on water depth, it will fish either vertical or more horizontal, with the weight always behind the float. It's important to have a general idea about your depth. You can adjust it simply by sliding your float stop up and down the top-shot. If you develop the bad habit of always leaving it in one position, you may miss the hook set on an eight foot stopper set, in three feet of water. In my experience, the more horizontal the presentation, the tougher it can be to catch up to that take down. When in the drift boat, I don't spend the day constantly adjusting my stopper depth. that being said, if I know I am fishing a hole that is about four feet in depth, I will adjust my stopper to around six foot. From the weight to your bait, there is really no change. The bait, cheater, worm etc. will be down river of the weight.
Hopefully this will clear up some questions and as always, keep the questions coming and we'll do our best to get you guys the info.
