The Outdoor Line Forum

I have been needing to get my boat in the water and check the electrical field around my boat. I have all the necessary testing equipment. Since it is a simple test I was wondering if anyone else was interested in meeting at everett ramp and motoring out a little into the the bay and run a check on electrical fields their boat is giving off?

Pretty cool idea LM!
After some new equipment installations last fall, I was looking forward to some serious blackmouth fishing.

While grinding around over a few likely looking marks last winter, I was not getting bit as often as I thought I should so I pulled out the ol' multi-tester and went to work.

If you're wondering about your boats "fishability" start with your zincs. If you personally have not replaced the zinc sacrificial anodes on your boat, do so.

Then, with your boat in saltwater, drop a downrigger ball in the water. Place the positive probe of your multi-tester on the downrigger wire and the negative side on your battery's negative post.

If your boat is correctly zinced, the natural electrolysis of your stainless wire and the fresh zinc should be 0.80 volts.

Maximum salmon attraction occurs right around 0.5 to 0.6 of a volt. Most boats are too "hot".

Is braid a good option? Yes, I think it is! However, it's hard for me to give up on wire...

I run braid for now, I plan on switching back to stainless wire soon, just have to find time to do the change over. First I will replace all my zincs, two on Volvo Penta and one on yamaha 9.9. Then check resistance from major components to each other. Engine to outdrive, engine to kicker, zincs to negative bus etc... I'm looking for lower resistance between equipment ( less then 1 ohm). Once that has checks out, I will be clipping positive wire to down rigger ball and lowering into water. looking for the Voltage you spoke about .8 vdc... If too hot which it shouldn't be if the components gounding checks out, Then I could add more bonding capacity by adding jumper wires between equipment and Neg side of battery(s)... If not enough voltage, then add zincs... that is the plan anyway... I know my trim tabs don't have zincs on them, so that would be the first place to start adding. I will take pictures of the process and others maybe able to take something from it...

Tell you what LM, you have a great grasp of the process and you'll come out on the other side of the process with a vessel that is "fishing well" electrically.

It's attention to detail that sets the average guy "goin fishin'" from a good angler. Good job!

Also found shrink wrap with built in shielding. This would make for a clean install and if sealed properly last for years. Just add a jumper wire from the shield of the shrink wrap to ground and would work great.

Another thing you can do is seal your bonding points. This will keep corrosion down on your bonding, cut your yearly maintenance down as well. If anyone wants some pointers on that process PM me.