The Outdoor Line Forum

Posted: **Thu Jun 19, 2014 8:04 am**

[i]I have a jet pump (new motor and jet with stainless impeller-was then but not now) which was setup by a supposed expert dealer. Long story made short here.:

Paint is peeling and decided to pull pump and have a friend powder coat it and found out when pulling it no lock washers were used to secure mounting bolts but a blue colored thread locker plus all other bolts were done the same. (i think i know the brand but will not list it here) Even the water pump impeller (COPPER/BRONZE/BRASS CENTER)was seized to the stainless drive shaft.

No anti seize was used period. Have some broken stainless bolts in an aluminum casting and need to find a bit or system that will drill/remove said bolts out as i broke one drill bit in one yesterday and have no clue anymore (as if I ever did) as to which drill bit to use - also any suggestions on how to remove those broken bolts- new casting is out of the question as i live on a fixed income and do not suggest manufacturer or dealer as they are not answering my question- i am not placing any blame but they certainly are and it is all finger pointing away from themselves.[/i]

Posted: **Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:19 am**

Hey GFN,
That is truly a bummer and yes, as you indicate... not a correct installation with regard to the jet pump.

Here's why and here's what I would do -and have done in the past- with frozen stainless bolts in a cast aluminum housing:

First off,... ANTI-SIEZE GREASE MUST ALWAYS BE USED WHERE STEEL AND ALUMINUM MEET! tommygun

Sorry for the rant but at the intersection of Stainless Street and Aluminum Avenue you will find Corrosion Court and every mechanic knows it.

How to fix it? Clean out your freezer an put your cast aluminum jet pump in it for a day.
Then, get some PB Blaster http://www.blastercorporation.com/ penetrating oil.
Pull the pump out of the freezer and hit it with the PB immediately and let it soak in as the aluminum casting expands.

You'll need some patience and possibly an "Easy Out" and some carbide drill bits to get into those bolts but you will succeed.

As a last resort, you can take your pump to your local machine shop and get good results, possibly even new Heli-Coil threads.

Just make sure you anti-sieze your complete re-installation and retorque it after 10 hours and don't ask me how I learned all this... bangheadwall

Posted: **Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:09 am**

Yes the combo of stainless hardware in aluminum castings is a problem in the marine realm. I would however caution you in the use of "antiseize". Most common grades have metal in the compound and will not help your cause. Through personal experience and consult with marine mechanics I can fully endorse two products that will work. OMC sealing compound would be my first choice and mercury has a nonconductive grease that works well also. It is possible to drill these out and use an easy out with heat and penetrating oil, I just did one yesterday in fact, but I highly recommend a machine shop if you have not done this type of work before. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Posted: **Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:26 am**

suggestions noted and appreciated- #1 fixed income and shop labor rate =1/16 of my total monthly income.

#2 no freezer that big for me- do not know anyone who has one that big either, but on another note might have to use co2 in spots and hope that works.

Thanks but am really so p--- off right now cant even see straight-

manuf was contacted about paint issue and was asked for some guidance and not laying any blame from me and they only laid blame on me and refused to give any suggestions and also gain no blame was looking for suggestions on the broken bolts and they refuse to answer my emails- plus dealer refused to talk to me in person or vial email. Great support huh got my money now go screw yourself.

I still have the emails and may have to post them where they can be seen for all to read and i will name names

gfn

Posted: **Sat Jun 28, 2014 7:39 am**

After many hours of grinding and drilling I was able to get all drilled and re-tapped except for 2 which are 90 to 95% removed- then broke a tap and was using thread cutting oil no less-got the tap removed and gave up on those 2 holes but noticed i have the room to use nuts and bolts -will use stainless nylock nuts with flat washers at top where the room is.

Visited another dealer who also sells pumps in Everett and was told they also use loctite on every-bolt -period-

I about fell over (this is a major brands dealer no less) and asked them then what do you do to pull pumps after say about 3 years of use that may need repairs- just fight it off like you did and charge accordingly.

I will follow the suggested installation of the pump by manufacturer except for one little deviation I will use a good water proof grease in place of anti-seize after having done some research online and been given the same information via a few websites:anti-seize has metallic properties in it and will still cause corrosion

Pump now in shop for powder coating and the powder-coater asked me when I repainted the pump and i asked why- his reply was because it was a lousy job first time and then touched up or repainted soon after- his experience told him that the paint on this particular pump was about 80% shot and just waiting to come off-when bead blasting the pump it was confirmed by the way it came off in big chunks,

If I had used a pressure washer on it it would have come off this was including a car-wash pressure. Piss poor paint job in his opinion (powder-coaters words and not mine)- he told me it would look 100% better and will last a long long time if taken care of properly just washed and cleaned occasionally )meaning saltwater rinsed off outside after every use - not a huge issue as it is rinsed and washed every trip into the salt and flushed also:

Now anyone have a great brand of waterproof marine use grease in mind and every dealer i visited said his brand was best and my feeble mind is spinning

Posted: **Sat Jun 28, 2014 6:05 pm**

: 002.JPG (248.51 KiB) Viewed 7312 times

Now refinished-still apart

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