The Outdoor Line Forum

Lost a nice salmon this morning when the fish worked the tail of the spoon into and separated the split ring! This is the 2nd time I've found this condition, lost the fish both times! The spoon is from Luhr-Jensen, comes with the split ring installed. I checked my other spoons and found that most of the split rings are already separated, even the ones still in the package. Not Good!

Rich, I've had this problem too, usually after a frantic silver bight out in the ocean, or for instance, last year at seiku, when the blackmouth were so thick you couldn't even get the rod in the holder before another one was on.
I believe it's the thin construction of the spoon that makes them "flutter" so nicely in the water, but twisting, turning fish can bend the lure at a right angle, and I've actually lost the hook on one.
I have found that a simple bead chain off the split-ring, down to the hook, eliminates the leverage the fish can put on the spoon.
hope that helps you out.

I have had the same problem...and found for me the fix is to SILVER SOLDER the ring closed. For those of you not willing to do it...I will give my buddy's fix at the end of my post that is less effective but also less dangerous.

If properly prepared, silver solder will adhere to stainless steel. In my experience the solder holds the opening of the ring closed well enough to not allow this to happen anymore. You need quality silver solder, a basic butane torch, flux, and a little vise...I also recommend a fireproof cloth (both the cloth and torch are available at home depot. Here are my basic instructions...

The surfaces of the areas you want to solder must be free of any dirt, corrosion, oil or grease. I soak the rings in solvent and then use emery paper slid just inside the joint to clean the surfaces where they meet. Any foreign agent can destroy your solder connection so don't try to use any split rings hanging around, buy new ones. The connection will only be as strong as the silver solder itself, and never as strong as the stainless steel. But this application does not demand the strength of steel...it just needs to keep your spoon out of the gap in the ring.

Flux and Solder
You must use an acid-based soldering flux specifically designed to solder stainless steel. The acid breaks down the stainless steel finish to a point where the solder will adhere. The silver content of the solder determines the strength and the melting point, as both increase with silver content. For example, 95 percent tin and 5 percent silver melts at around 400 degrees. Solder with 20 to 40 percent silver melts at roughly 700 degrees. Select a solder strong enough for your application. The 5% silver solder is fine and cheaper.

Wrap the spoon in a WET CLOTH to act as a heat dam but be sure the cloth is not in contact with the split ring AT ALL. Then wrap the wet cloth with the fireproof cloth. I actually cut a slit in the cloth so I can push the opening of the ring up through it keeping the majority of the ring exposed but blocking off my spoon completely. Then gently put this in the vise so as not to damage the spoon. It takes very little pressure to hold the cloth so the ring stands up.

Heat the area slowly to give the flux a chance to operate. When the ring gets hot enough, the solder will melt instantly when you touch it to the joint and flow into place, but be careful not to overheat the stainless steel. It could oxidize and ruin its stainless qualities. Let the hot metal melt the solder. Never try to melt the solder with the torch. Always work in a well-ventilated area...I do this out in the sun on a cement driveway using a small worktable for safety. The fumes from the hot acid flux are toxic.

Once the ring opening has accepted the solder...let it cool before you try to remove it from the vice. This only takes a few minutes at most. Then you can crimp on your favorite hooks and as long as you don't overheat the stainless ring you can cut off and replace hooks without worry about the ring.

My buddy's wife won't let him run a torch...he's a clutz...so he came up with a way to fix his spoons and it seems to work just fine but is definately less permanent. He uses small size heat shrink tubing and winds a piece onto the split ring that covers the joint completely. Then he heats it up with a couple passes of his lighter and it shrinks over the joint...sealing off access. He has to cut them off and redo them occasionally (especially after a few fish) if they tear...but again, he doesnt have to run a torch.

Hope this helps!